'සිත්තම් කළ එම්බ්‍රොයිඩර්' වලට අලුත් කලක්

Shanghai's centuries-old embroidery tradition gains modern appeal

Gu embroidery, a cherished national intangible cultural heritage in Shanghai, continues to thrive and shine in the modern world, thanks to dedicated inheritors and innovative young minds.

As the only embroidery style in China named after a family, Gu Embroidery has faced significant challenges in its preservation, but this centuries-old craft still maintains its glory in the 21st century.

At the Gu Embroidery Research Institute in Shanghai's Songjiang District, Gu Embroidery inheritor Qian Yuefang and a group of embroidery artisans have been busy making special scented sachets.

Stitch by stitch, the artisans weave colorful threads into intricate patterns, incorporating intangible cultural techniques into the delicate sachets. These sachets not only carry blessings and auspiciousness, but also embody the legacy of Gu Embroidery.

Originating during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) in Songjiang, Gu Embroidery, also known as "painted embroidery," employs needles as brushes and threads as ink. Upon closer inspection, Gu Embroidery works would dazzle viewers with their rich texture and fine luster.

"The needles are as fine as the hair of an ink brush, the colors are as vivid as paintings, and the stitches are as delicate as strands of hair. These are the 'three unique aspects' of Gu Embroidery," said Qian.

Preserving this exquisite intangible heritage has been fraught with challenges. There are only about 20 inheritors still practicing, and the art is passed down solely through the master-apprentice model.

Qian Yuefang, a sixth-generation inheritor, has been embroidering for over five decades. She explained that Gu Embroidery combines embroidery art and traditional literati painting, requiring practitioners to possess knowledge of calligraphy, painting, and fine arts, which sets a high threshold for entry.

Moreover, it is a "slow art," where even the basic skills take three years to master. Completing a quality Gu Embroidery work can take anywhere from a year and a half to several years. Nowadays, fewer and fewer people can find the patience and dedication required for this "lonely profession," and the lack of new blood becomes the biggest obstacle to the passing on of this intangible cultural heritage.

"With one hand up and one hand down, you have to pull the thread back and forth endlessly. It feels very lonely, and requires great patience and perseverance," she said.

Qian emphasized that mechanization cannot replace the artistry and flexibility of human hands.

"Machines cannot replace embroiderers because machines are rigid. Gu Embroidery is about the understanding of the painting, the changes and application of the stitching techniques, and the flexible mastery. Each work we create is imbued with our emotions which are fully expressed on the cloth," said Qian.

Gu Embroidery not only embodies traditional embroidery craftsmanship, but also the aesthetic charm of the Jiangnan culture. Jiangan, a region located in the coastal area south of the Yangtze River, has had a significant influence on Chinese art through the ages.

"Gu Embroidery is a calling card of Songjiang. By protecting this craft, we are preserving a culture and passing it down," said Peng Yefeng, director of the Songjiang cultural activity center.

In the past, Gu Embroidery works were often displayed in museums and art galleries. To make the tradition more accessible, Gu embroiderers are exploring ways to incorporate the embroidery into creative products like earrings, brooches, and necklaces.

"With the traditional stitching techniques, we now make earrings, brooches, and necklaces with Gu Embroidery elements and related techniques. These products are quite popular," Qian said.

Cultural and creative products serve as a way to bring Gu Embroidery into ordinary households. In addition to the artisans' efforts to profit from their craft to keep the tradition alive, local authorities have also been exploring ways to better protect and preserve Gu Embroidery.

Inside the Gu Embroidery Research Institute, embroiderers no longer have to worry about income-related issues, allowing them to focus on studying the craft and creating artwork.

Jin Zhiteng, a young embroiderer, has been learning Gu Embroidery for six years at the institute and has become an outstanding representative among the "new generation" of embroiderers. Now, a group of post-90s and post-2000s embroiderers, like Jin, are injecting vitality and youthful energy into Gu Embroidery.

"Every time I recreate a piece of art in embroidery, it feels like I'm having a conversation with the creator of the artwork. Having the opportunity to be involved in the inheritance of an intangible cultural heritage that has been passed down for so long is something I'm very proud of," Jin said.

The local government has also introduced Gu Embroidery classes in schools, attracting more young people like Jin to carry on this centuries-old heritage.

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